Start by deciding whether you have truly no hot water, only lukewarm water, or hot water that runs out quickly. Those symptoms overlap, but they point to different checks.
1. Confirm the water heater is full
Connect water, open a hot faucet and wait for steady water flow with no air bursts. If the tank was drained, winterized or recently serviced, air in the tank can fool you. Restore heat only after the tank is full.
2. Check the bypass valves
After winterization, bypass valves are the number one suspect. In normal use, cold water must enter the heater, hot water must leave it and the bypass connection must be closed. One-valve, two-valve and three-valve systems look different, so use the RV plumbing diagram or label the valves once you confirm the correct position.
3. Eliminate shower cross-mixing
An outside shower or bathroom shower with both hot and cold knobs left open can mix cold water into the hot line even if the shower head is shut off. Close both knobs fully, not just the wand button, then retest at a sink.
4. Test propane and electric separately
- Propane works, electric does not: check breaker, switch, high-limit reset, element and 120V path.
- Electric works, propane does not: check LP supply, 12V controls, ignition lockout and burner service needs.
- Neither works: confirm bypass, tank full, 12V control power, safety resets and water-heater model settings.
5. Look for reset buttons and fault lights
Many water heaters have high-limit or ECO protection. A reset button that trips repeatedly is not the root problem. It may be reporting overheating, thermostat trouble, wiring faults or dry-fire damage. Use the manual for the exact reset procedure.
6. Give the tank recovery time
A six-gallon tank can be drained quickly by a long shower or multiple fixtures. If water starts hot and becomes cold, the heater may be working but recovery is slower than demand. Propane plus electric together may recover faster on combination models if the manual permits both at the same time.
7. Watch for tankless water-heater differences
Tankless RV water heaters have flow sensors, temperature settings, mixing behavior and error codes that differ from tank models. Low flow, restricted fixtures or winterization valve errors can make them seem dead even when the burner logic is waiting for the right conditions.
Related water-heater help
- RV water heater won't light on propane
- Works on propane but not electric
- RV water heater only lukewarm
- Water heater electric and propane guide
- RV propane regulator symptoms
FAQ
Why is water hot at first then cold?
The heater may be working but demand is higher than recovery, the tank is small, or cold water is mixing into the hot side.
Why is every faucet lukewarm?
That often points to bypass valves, a failed check valve, an outside shower left open, or a mixing valve problem.
Should I replace the element first?
No. Confirm the tank was full, power reaches the element circuit, switches and resets are correct, and the symptom is electric-only before replacing parts.
Choose the exact water-heater symptom
The appliance troubleshooter separates no hot water, lukewarm water, propane failure and electric failure.
Diagnose water heaterSources and review notes
Use the installed water-heater manual, RV plumbing diagram and manufacturer reset procedure. Suburban RV service support provides owner and service resources and reminds owners that gas appliances should be serviced by qualified technicians.